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I broke my first bridge...it was already slotted etc, and I inserted a shim to level to later re-rout for a left-handed guitar...

I cracked that, ho hum...

I'm on my blank pyramid bridge now, got the slot measured and angled for a leftie, but after some research on the web, have discovered that some bridge pin holes are designed sloped in parallel to the holes like this...



Or straight...



I like this one the best...



Does it matter how the bridge pin holes are designed? I, for simplicity's sake, have designed them to be straight..

I'm getting to work with it tommorow...*chews fingernails...*

In hindsight, I have yet another question...is this pyramid bridge suitable for dreadnought guitars? I heard somewhere that they are only suitable for smaller bodied guitars...Sam Price38941.6971180556

if the holes are aligned in a straight line parallel to the grain you create a weakmess and the site for a likely fracture line.


if the holes are parallel to the long axis you can avoid structural weakness by cutting and orienting your bridge grain appropriately, but you get varied string break angles.

putting the line of the holes parrallel to the saddle helps maintain a constant string break angle. as long as you orient the grain line appropriately you can avoid creating a structural weakness.

using the curved arrangement helps avoid the creation of a weak line in the bridge but makes the string break angle quite varied.

i favour using the parallel straight configuration as it gives a good string break angle and makes it easy to avoid creating a structural weakness.crazymanmichael38941.7024768519

I don't think it really makes a difference. People get too caught up in minor things. If you like the look of a curve or angle or whatever use it they are all tried and proven designs. If your break angle is too low, Stewmac sells a nifty little saw that corrects that by cutting a small slot between the hole and saddle.

Al

[QUOTE] got the slot measured and angled for a leftie [/quote]
Sam , the design you show is for a standard right hand.

Sam
I used to do repair and restoration work.
The majority of bridge replacements I did
where the straight bridges that cracked
along the pin holes. The drawing you show with
the pin holes following the compensated saddle
was designed to help reduce cracking through the pin
holes. If you do use the pyramid bridge you have,
follow the angle of the saddle, it is an improvment.
I would say the belly bridge came about to
help solve the cracking problem and at the same time
provide a little more gluing surface.
Hope this helps!

Tom

_________________
http://www.moriciguitar.com

Thanks everyone!!!


[QUOTE=Alain Lambert] [QUOTE] got the slot measured and angled for a leftie [/quote]
Sam , the design you show is for a standard right hand.[/QUOTE]

That's because these are examples off the web and close up photos of left hand slotted bridges are hard to find!!!

Sam Price38942.1136805556

If you need it, Frank Ford's website has a great tutorial on making a pyramid bridge.

Made one myself today out of African blackwood with pins parallel to saddle.

I'm going with the pyramid bridge I've measured up...I just cant's spend ANY more money on my guitar at the moment, my husband is getting really annoyed with the amount of parcels coming through the door addressed to me...

"Oh, don't worry, hun, I only got it for a couple of pounds off Ebay/Stewmac/Craft Supplies/David Dykes!!!"

That's kinda wearing thin, now... Sam Price38942.5385416667

Be strong Sam....be strong.

Tell him there can be no price limits placed on true artistry and your happiness!